GREECE: Zakynthos
This is an island with huge appeal and two names. Zakynthos or Zante – either one will do, whether you're referring to the whole island or its capital town. Small enough to be easily explored, large enough to offer up bags of diversity, Zakynthos is one of those destinations that's got the balance just right. Without a doubt, its trump card is its good looks. Think dramatic mountains. Lush valleys. And turquoise seas. No wonder the Venetians dubbed it the 'Flower of the Orient'. The star beauty spot is the much talked about Smugglers' Cove. One of the most photographed sights in Greece, it's graced the cover of many a holiday brochure. And for good reason. Picture a crescent of deep-piled sand, a half-buried shipwreck and some theatrical-looking cliffs. Just gorgeous. As to places to stay, there's literally something for everyone. Laganas is by far and away the biggest holiday hangout – a 24-hour playground that parties hard from Easter right through to the last flight out in October. And if you've got the kids in tow, Alykanas is a sure-fire hit. Away from the beach resorts, it's an altogether different story. Rustic stone farms look out over vineyards heavy with grapes. And tall grasses grow among the ruins of old Venetian buildings levelled by the earthquake of '53. Of course, no description of Zakynthos would be complete without mentioning the famous loggerhead turtles. Every year, in the still of the night, these giant mariners trundle ashore to lay their eggs in Zakynthos' soft sands. And what with eco-tourism taking centre stage these days, do your bit for the planet by leaving these rare sea creatures to it.
Beaches
Zakynthos is a smorgasbord - or should that be meze? - of sun-blushed beaches and bays. The most famous ribbon of sand is probably on the south-eastern shore, stretching west from Kalamaki all the way to Lithakia. Spreading into dunes in some spots, narrowing into golden slivers others, it's well supplied with bars and tavernas. What's more, the soft sands form one of several nesting sites for the loggerhead turtles. If you like to mix up a little bit of activity with your sun tanning, home in on one of these beauties. Vassilikos, where scuba diving adds an extra dimension to its clutch of watersports. Alikes, whose pounding waves at draw surfers to its twin bays. And Argassi, whose narrow hem of sand-shingle-pebble may not be the prettiest waterfront but there are banana rides during summer. Plus the water's wonderfully clear for snorkelling. Quieter shores include Porto Roma and Alykanas – the requisite taverna in place at each. But we've saved the best 'til last. It's not often that an inaccessible beach is the star of an island's show, but on Zakynthos, Smuggler's Cove is the undisputed headliner. Make time for a boat trip here to see the shipwreck. Washed ashore on pale powder sands, it lies where the sea left it twenty years ago. Cameras are a must.
Eating out
Whether it's a light lunch or a leisurely dinner, when you're in Greece eating out is a lifestyle thing. Naturally, the food has to be good. But there's something else that's just as important. The ambience. The atmosphere. The company. The craic. And the Greeks have a special word for it – 'kefti'. Zakynthos has more than its fair share of places that ooze kefti. You really can't go wrong with a family-run taverna. With their relaxed feel and lip-smacking Greek dishes, they really hit the spot. As you'd expect, plenty of places have tweaked their menus to include British favourites. Things like sizzling fry ups and Sunday roasts. In the bigger resorts, like Laganas and Argassi, you can eat your way round the world. From Indian to Chinese – and a fair few nationalities in between –you can tuck into onion bahjis one night and spring rolls another. And thanks to Zakynthos' former masters - the Venetians - Italian food crops up a fair bit, too. But when in Rome and all that, you really should try what the Greeks do best – their own food. Local specialities are simply cooked, lightly spiced and unpretentious. Nouvelle Cuisine never really got off the ground here. You'll find all of the usual Greek suspects on offer. Order 'mezes' – a clutter of taster plates that may include octopus, squid, olives, feta and stuffed vine leaves. 'Keftedakia' - tasty little meatballs. Or 'tiropitakia' – tiny filo pastry parcels stuffed with cheese. And for those with a sweet tooth, the island's 'mandolato' almond nougat is very moreish. Now for the liquid nectar. Zante's sun-soaked vineyards produce the raw materials for the aptly-named Popolaro wine and a crisp, dry Verdea that goes a treat with seafood.
- The Red Lion, Argassi Open all day, with an easy-going atmosphere, this place has a pool table, darts and widescreen TV. It also serves generous portions of good hearty food. The big breakfast menu will set you up for the day.
- To Paradosiako, Alykes A really traditional Greek taverna in the style of its food, mood and decor. It's friendly. It's well priced. And it's only a hundred metres from the beach.
- Alitzerini Taverna, Kiliomenos It's worth the trip to this sleepy region for a fabulous evening. A live band plays Greek music and the old school recipes use local produce like Mastelado wine from the nearby organic vineyards.
- Andreas Fish Taverna, Kipseli In the best island village tradition, this a restaurant where you can go into the kitchen to choose your food, chat to the chef about the dishes, and dine in a garden. All under the palm trees and right by the sea.
- Porto Limnionas, Porto Limnionas Get to this west coast delight in time to catch the sunset. Set on its little namesake bay, this romantic retreat offers home-cooked meat and fish dishes, good local wines, and very reasonable prices. Panoramic sea views come as standard.
Nightlife
If you're among the party people who pick Zakynthos for dance-a-thon nights and sleep-it-off days, there's little doubt where you'll be heading for - Laganas. Its long and ever lengthening strip stretches inland from the beach in a big, brash line-up of pubs, clubs and neon-lit bars. Some start at dusk and go on 'til dawn. Others go right round the clock. All good fun if you can take the pace. Argassi, meanwhile, is lively but a little less frenzied, with a good variety of family-friendly cafes, karaoke joints and a couple of discos. Likewise, Tsilivi offers up a good mix of nightspots – so you can make-up a team for a quiz night or put your killer heels on and dance the night away. Zakynthos Town, meanwhile, has a little of everything - its music bars and discos stretching down the Argassi road. Elsewhere you're looking at leisurely evenings that start with sundowners in a favourite bar and end with a sticky baklava and coffee in well placed cafe, with an al fresco meal sandwiched nicely in the middle.
- The Jungle Bar, Alykes Crossroads A fun place for fab drinks – there's a very competitive spirit between staff for creating the best cocktails. All accompanied by the latest sounds mixed with classic hits.
- Rescue Club, Laganas Take this place at your own tempo. Relax with drinks al fresco under the stars, up the pace in the cocktail bar or go for the burn and boogie in the club. Entertainment could be anything from fire shows to go-go dancers on the bar.
- Planet Pub, Laganas The Laganas version of laid back. With a swimming pool and the Red Poppy cocktail and music bar, this is a popular place with couples and families.
- Barrage Nightclub, Argassi It's known right across the island. It's a gleaming, glamorous place for party people. It's got good DJ's who play funky music. And it's open till dawn.
- G&J Sports Action Bar, Tsilivi Something for everyone in this lively spot – transformed into a stylish and up-beat sports and dance venue.
Shopping
While every self-respecting resort has its fair share of bucket-and-spade shops, serious shoppers will almost certainly head for Zakynthos Town. Behind the harbour there's a maze of streets, where gift, craft and curiosity shops jostle for space. Like much of Greece, shoes and bags, ceramics and jewellery make great take-homes. But the Ionian Islands are best known for needlework – in the form of embroidery and hand-made lace. From bed linen to delicate table cloths, snap yourself up a bargain. And don't restrict your shopping to souvenir shops. Mini-markets make great pickings too – for the locally produced wines, cheeses and olives.
