ITALY: Tuscany
Tuscany. What does the word mean to you? Big stodgy meals cooked by mama? Meadows coated in a thick layer of poppies? A terracotta sea of higgledy-piggledy rooftops? Well you'd be right, on all counts. But it's not all about rustic cottages and rolling hills. Far from it. What if we told you it's home to some of Italy's most impressive coastal resorts. Resorts like Forte Dei Marmi, the preferred party playground of the Italian jetset. And achingly stylish Viareggio, whose silky sands attract a smart tanning crowd. Surprised? You're not the only one. Very few people associate Tuscany with beaches and sea views. Along with the recipe for lip-smacking ragu sauce, it's the region's best-kept secret. And understandably so. With long ribbons of sand, turquoise waters and slick seaside towns, you can see why those in the know want to keep it under their sunhats. However, as the cat creeps further out the bag, more and more people are starting to see the appeal. You see, a holiday on the Tuscan Riviera lets you have the best of both worlds – a beach holiday with world class sights to boot. One day you're lazing on sun-drenched shores. The next, losing time in the twisted streets of Florence. Floating in the Med one morning. Admiring the Leaning Tower another. It's all there on your doorstep. What's more, this piece of the great Italian puzzle has a great vibe going on, too - classy but never aloof, traditional but with its finger very much on the pulse. So, if you're bored of the usual Mediterranean haunts, give this Italian gem a whirl. La vita just doesn't get any more dolce than this.
Famous for its art, its history and its evocative landscape, the Tuscany coast offers visitors beach promenades, beautiful countryside and the spectacular rocky heights of the Apuan Alps all in one place. The Versilia coastline itself is famous for its graceful resorts such as Forte Dei Marmi, Viareggio, Lido Di Camaiore and Marina Di Pietrasanta. Inland, meanwhile, are tranquil villages and hills, nature reserves, lively walled cities and cultural jewels like Pisa. And everywhere are fascinating places to visit like the spectacular Carrara marble quarries, the medieval towns of San Gimignano and Siena, and the famous Cinque Terre towns.
Beaches
Unfold your beach brolly. Pop on your Gucci shades. And get ready to relax, Italian-style. The Tuscan Riviera, or the Versilia Riviera as it's sometimes called, is a real suntrap and has creamed a selection of Italy's best beaches. Expect real postcard stuff - turquoise seas and buttercup sands framed by the dramatic peaks of the Alpi Apuane range. For added measure, the 50s-style deck chairs and parasols bring an evocative splash of Riviera-style glam. All in all, the sandy strip stretches for 30 sun-kissed kilometres and it's fringed by some pretty special beach resorts. There's fashionable Forte dei Marmi, whose golden beach is a favourite stomping ground of the Italian glitterati. Then there's Marina di Pietrasanta and Tirrenia, whose sleepy sands have bagged to-sigh-for backdrops – all rugged peaks and fresh-smelling pine forests. And don't forget Viareggio, the biggest resort on the coast, whose all-seducing beach is backed by a stylish, palm-freckled promenade. Plenty of them have been awarded the all-important Blue Flag for their clear blue seas so if swimming's a priority of yours then you've come to the right place. One thing worth bearing in mind when you're choosing your hotel - large stretches of the coast are run by hotels or private operators who charge for use of the beach and its facilities, so it's worth picking a place that has a beach all its own.
Eating out
Eat to live? Or live to eat? In Italy it's most definitely the latter. And in Tuscany, no nonsense grub is the secret to its success in the culinary stakes. Simple but delicious dishes seasoned with a little well-placed thyme, rosemary and fennel keep the world's foodies coming back for more. And when you consider what's on offer, you'll soon see that meal times will be a highlight of your holiday. Stuffed pasta smothered in ragu sauce that hasn't seen the inside of a jar. Pizzas loaded with melt-in-your-mouth mozzarella and sun-sweetened tomatoes. And hearty bowls of broth crammed with enough veggie goodness to satisfy your weekly intake. Of course, being on the coast, fresh fish and seafood snatches the spotlight on most menus. Scorpionfish, monkfish, mullet and other rock fish are tossed into the pot, emerging as a thick tomato-laced soup called 'cacciucco'. If you fancy a hearty steak, try 'bistecca alla Fiorentina'. It's grilled over an open fire and seasoned with oil and herbs. Or if you're a strict veggie, try 'fagioli all'Uccelletto', a classic bean combo drenched in a lip-smacking tomato sauce. Whatever you choose, almost every meal you have will be combined with three things. Oven-fresh bread. Olive oil so good it's known as liquid gold. And a glass of fruity Italian wine to wash it down with. Tuscany is known mainly for Chianti but look out too for the local Vino da Tavola, a simple table wine that's cheap, plentiful and goes down like a dream.
- Romano, Viareggio This family-run number has had since 1966 to perfect its fish dishes so expect to be impressed.
- Enoteca Pinchiorri, Florence The locals can't get enough of this Michelin-starred temple which takes Tuscan classics and gives them a contemporary kick.
- Fabio Picchi, Florence Rustic ingredients with a hefty dose of imagination have helped this restaurant clinch a superb reputation.
- La Bottega del Gelato, Pisa The ice-cream here's so divine you can barely leave the shop for fear of losing licking time.
- Pizzaria di Nonno Mede, Siena When you're ready to sink your teeth into a slice or six, head for this pizza place, which serves up a great view of the Duomo with your dough.
Nightlife
Balance seems to have been the buzzword when the Tuscan Riviera designed its night scene. Yes, it's got its fair share of bars and clubs to cater for the livelier crowd. But it's managed to side-step the big pockets of neon and seemingly endless happy hours that swallow up so many tourist spots. And if, in fact, pin-drop peace and quiet is your preferred soundtrack after dark, you'll find that, too. It's like we said – this Italian slice walks the nightlife tightrope like a pro. For the biggest choice of coastal watering holes, your best bet is Viareggio. It places some great bars, cafes and restaurants within walking distance of each other. Plus its got enough clubs and discos to see to it you're not up in time for breakfast the morning after. Forte dei Marmi, meanwhile, is the place for people-watching. Pull up a seat in one of the smart pavement cafes, order a chilled glass of Prosecco, and spy the immaculate Italian jetset. Or you could take your pick from the smaller towns and villages and roadtest some of their characterful little bars. Plenty of these places have been kept in the family for generations and don't be surprised if the owners give you an old-friend's welcome. If wine-sipping by the sea sounds a little sedate for you, head inland to the cities of Florence and Pisa. Both offer up a real mixed-bag when it comes to nights out. You can just as easily nibble on salami in a backstreet tapas bar as step in time to the samba at a buzzing Brazilian drinking den. In Florence, the most bohemian area is the Oltrarno, south of the river, where the city's beautiful people party through the night. Or there's Piazza della Signoria, which gives you an altogether more sedate night out. In Pisa, students keep things lively in the old centre of town, while the Medieval Borgo Stretto has bagged a clutch of classy joints you'll love.
- Meccano, Florence If you've got your dancing shoes on, get yourself to this place and strut your stuff on the dancefloor.
- Cafe de Paris, Florence Pull up a seat and see how far you can get down the cocktail list. With 120 to choose from, our guess is not very far at all.
- Borderline Club, Pisa From jazz to rock, nothing's off-limits at this live music venue which things lively 'til late.
- Capannina di Franceschi, Forte dei Marmi Classy cocktails. Good music. And a party atmosphere. Everything you need for a night out.
- Tower Live, Torre del Lago Two dance floors pound to every type of music under the sun at this beachfront gem.
Shopping
Your euro count will take a serious knock once you start hitting the shops on the Tuscan Riviera. Boutique-browsing is a serious sport, and you'll soon find yourself hankering after that little black dress or weighing up the pros and cons of a designer shoe splurge. Of course, it's not all about smart shops with their eye-popping price tags - you can just as easily pick up charming market crafts as splash out on an ab-fab Fendi handbag. Beautiful hand-woven fabrics, quirky handmade toys and sparkling stained glass – they all line up to tempt you in this part of the world. For a serious splurge, head to Florence where you could make a serious dent in your finances inside half an hour. Just outside the city, there are two jumbo shopping centres. There's Barberino outlet village ten minutes north of Florence, which is jam-packed with high-class retailers. Then there's The Mall near Leccio, about 30 minutes away, whose shelves are well stocked with Armani, Burberry and Gucci. Talking of Italy's fashion titans, back in Florence you might fancy a stroll down Via dei Tornabuoni. The city's answer to Fifth Avenue, this is where the design kings flaunt their finest togs and to-die-for accessories – Gucci, Prada, Versace, you get the picture. If you're after a special piece of jewellery, meanwhile, take yourself along to the Ponte Vecchio. The city's weather-worn, but nonetheless world famous, bridge is stacked with goldsmiths whose windows display a glittering haul of treasures. For antiques, your best bet is Via Maggio, or if its Tuscan taste sensations you're after, get ready to rummage around San Lorenzo Market. Pungent cheeses, sought-after salami, olive oil like you've never tasted – you'll find it all here. Then, of course, there's Pisa's shopping scene to think about. A good place to kick off things off is Corso Italia, the city's most popular shopping address. It leads you into Borgo Stretto on the other side of the river, another great place for a spree.
