ITALY: Sicily
From blackened lava fields to soft sandy coves, Sicily boasts wonderfully contrasting landscapes. This idyllic isle is a patchwork of rolling plains, sweet-smelling citrus groves, precipitous cliffs and flower-filled meadows. Crowning the island is Sicily's most famous landmark, the smouldering summit of Mount Etna whose capricious nature is hinted at by the thin curl of smoke that rises from its peak. Like the scenery, Sicily's heritage is also incredibly varied. Its strategic mid-Mediterranean location made it the coveted prize of many an empire and centuries of invasion by the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, French, Spanish and Italians left behind indelible marks on the island's cultural landscape. Evocative ruins dating back to antiquity mingle with lush sub-tropical vegetation while fortress-like Norman cathedrals and honey-hued Baroque towns gaze out across gently-lapping turquoise seas.
Romans, Greeks, Spanish, Arabs, French - the list of civilisations Sicily has been home to is impressively diverse, and each one has left behind a little of itself. Whether it's in the amazing architecture, in the distinctive Sicilian dialect or added ingredients to the cuisine, Sicily has absorbed something from all its visitors and created a culture that is proudly different to the rest of Italy. Palermo is the island's capital, although you could probably guess that from the moment you walk out in its warren of medieval streets. Energised and fast-paced, this town teems with life. The east coast pulls in most of Sicily's visitors, thanks to its impressive shoreline, sights and sandy beaches. Taormina is the coast's centre, a chic and popular resort town that has lost little to tourism, with its intimate piazzas and stunning backdrop, Mount Etna. Most of the beach resorts are within reach of here. On the southern most point of the island sits Syrausa, once one of the most important of the Hellenistic cities and worth a visit. Volcanic islands are dotted around the northern shores of Sicily and are notable for their raw beauty.
Beaches
Sicily's dramatic coastline is a melange of hideaway grottoes and rocky alcoves, punctuated by smooth, sun-warmed pebble beaches and occasional arches of fine golden sands. Stretching out over 2km, Mondello, near Palermo, is one of Sicily's most impressive sandy beaches as is the crescent-shaped curve of Cefalu. Nestled between the nooks and crannies around the celebrated resort of Taormina lies the much-photographed Mazzaro beach and the wide sandy shores of Letojanni and Giardini Naxos on the east coast are hugely popular with sun-worshippers.
Eating out
Sicilians have a genuine passion for food and this love is transposed into their culinary creations. In many respects, mealtimes form the backbone of everyday Sicilian life – locals like nothing more than getting together as a family around a large table and enjoying some good old-fashioned home-cooked fare. It is perhaps unsurprising, therefore, that Sicily offers a host of restaurants to choose from - streets are lined with snack stalls, inviting pizzerias, simple trattorias and elegant restaurants. Sicilian cuisine is as unique as the island itself. In typical Mediterranean style, there's a bias towards fresh fish and seafood. Try sarde a beccafico, a traditional dish from Palermo which consists of sardines stuffed with pine nuts, cinnamon, grapes and anchovies gently fried in toasted breadcrumbs. Another favourite is pesce spada alla ghiotta, swordfish steaks cooked in a tomato and onion sauce served with potatoes, olives and capers. Like the rest of Italy, pasta is hugely popular too and Sicilian specialities include spaghetti alla norma, spaghetti strings served with spicy tomatoes and aubergines, and pasta 'ncasciata, which contains meatballs, hard-boiled egg and sausage. Sicily is also known for its range of cheeses including pecorino, caciocavallo and ricotta, the latter of which is used in several Sicilian sweet dishes. Cannoli uses ricotta wrapped in pastry which is then dipped in chocolate and cassata is a sponge cake filled with ricotta and decorated with candied fruit.
Nightlife
Sicilian cafe culture comes into its own after dark. Stylish pavement cafes and bars simmer with conversation as well-heeled locals settle down to enjoy a post-meal digestivo liqueur or a small cup of steaming espresso coffee before linking arms to begin their customary evening stroll or passegiata. Even in Palermo, the island's hectic capital, life quietens down considerably as night falls. Those looking for a livelier feel tend to head to nearby Mondello where there's a host of buzzing bars along the seafront. Taormina and its environs offer the occasional disco but most evenings out focus on good meals followed by leisurely drinks watching the world go by.
Shopping
Head to any of Sicily's big cities, such as Palermo, Catania and Syracuse, and you'll find all of Italy's most well-known designer boutiques as well as a number of well-stocked department stores. If you're looking for traditional handicrafts head to Caltagirone, Sciacca and Santo Stefano di Camastra where striking Sicilian porcelain jugs, tiles, vases and ornamental plates are produced. For a real slice of Sicilian life head to the outdoor market at Vucciria in Palermo. Illuminated by hundreds of lights, it's particularly atmospheric at dusk and brims with stalls selling all manner of food goods. Catania's daily fish market is another colourful spectacle with fishermen bringing ashore their catch of the day to be sold on the harbourside.
