ITALY: Sardinia
You might think it's Italy's knee-high boot that has it all – the culture, the cuisine, the countryside. And of course, you'd be right. But for a real slice of La Dolce Vita, Sardinia manages to pull off all of this, and then some. Marooned off Italy's west coast, it sits demurely in the twinkling Med, smug in the knowledge that it doesn't even need to try to win anyone over. Its dreamy gorgeousness seduces just about everyone who steps foot here. Why? Well for a start, it's got an exclusive edge. As a holiday hotspot for wealthy Italians and the jet set it's always been at the discreet cutting-edge of chic getaways. We're most definitely not talking mass tourism here. This beguiling isle has been preserved as one great big beauty spot. Just hotfoot it to any of the eye-popping beaches that lasso the island and you'll wonder how such an unspoilt European destination still exists. Head inland, where Maseratis zip past hay-toting tractors, and it's just as impressive too. A scenic patchwork of soaring mountains, centuries-old forests and hilltop villages. Plus you can do just about everything you can do over on the mainland. Wanderlust your way through age-old ruins. Give your wardrobe the Italian job. Indulge in good food and fine wine. With so many places to 'ooh' and 'ahh' over though, it's no mean feat deciding where to stay. If you want to shake things up in the glam stakes, the VIP paradise that's the Costa Smeralda region wins hands down. Try the upmarket seaside town of Porto Cervo where you'll be hanging out with the hip, designer-clad crowd. Or perhaps somewhere drizzled in history and culture is more up your holiday street, in which case, medieval Alghero is just the ticket. An elegant town of cobbled streets crammed full of traditional trattorias and flower-filled balconies, it's atmospheric with a capital 'A'. And if you just can't resist the thought of the angel-white sands here, it's a tough toss up with no end of coastal lovelies to choose from. Bahia Sardinia on the Costa Smeralda was made for romance with its marshmallow-white sands and secluded coves. Or go down south and stretch out on laid-back Santa Margherita Di Pula's shimmering shores. Wherever you head, we bet your bottom dollar you'll be back for more.
Two hundred kilometres away from the Italian mainland and a little over that from the North African coast, Sardinia sits in the centre of the Mediterranean, providing a mild climate and unbeatable sunshine. Its seat in the centre mean that centuries of civilizations have swept across the island, from the Romans to the Genoans to the most recent visitors, the Catalonians. Each people left behind a little bit of history, adding to the unique patchwork of Sardinian culture - Roman ruins, Pisan churches, baroque and gothic architecture. Cagliari is Sardinia's capital and principal ferry port, hence has built up accommodation and restaurant to serve the needs of the people arriving. Olbia is the northern ferry port, and is a good place from which to start exploring the rugged northern coastline. Alghero is the island's main package resort and has been a favourite with British tourists for many years. Impressively, this flourishing fishing port has maintained local businesses independent from tourism, meaning that the resort is unspoilt and as friendly as ever. The Spanish had a particularly strong influence here, which earned the town the nickname Barcelonetta. Within the walls of the old town, narrow cobbled streets bare both Italian and Catalonian names, while flamboyant churches and wrought iron balconies hint at the presence of the Spanish. The hotels and restaurants of the resort have built up around the outside of the historic centre, but still capture some of the rare atmosphere created when Italian and Spanish cultures merge.
Beaches
Talking about Sardinia's beaches, or even looking at their pictures, just doesn't do them justice. Cushiony soft and as shimmery-white as pearls, they're the kind of places you want to flop down and not go anywhere for a long time. We're talking blonde-white sands, many of which are footprint-free. Piercing turquoise and deep jade waters, so clear you can see the seabed. And sugary sand dunes that offer hours of solitude in the sun. With so many beauties circling the island though, it's a tough call where to head. Vying for the top spot is the captivating Costa Smeralda. Sweeping across Sardinia's northern coastline, there are around 80 Eden-like bays dotted among the cosmopolitan towns here. Put your feet up in pin-drop peace and quiet Porto Rafael with its bewitching little bay. Or check out the horseshoe-shaped Isola Rossa with bright blue waters that are as shallow as a baby's bath. The coastline around capital Cagliari kick up quite a storm in the sand stakes, too. An impressive necklace of beaches is scalloped along these southerly shores. Grace the bounty-like Santa Margherita di Pula, backed by whispering pine woods and rugged mountains. Or stretch out on Poetto, one of Italy's longest beaches, which seems to go on forever. Whichever slice you unwind on, make sure you dip into the glass-like waters. Snorkelling here opens a portal into a world like no other with flashing shoals of fish, waving anemones and striking red Sardinian coral.
Eating out
It's not a question of what to eat in Sardinia - it's a question of what's not to eat. You probably won't have time to eat your way through the entire A to Z list of island specialities, but try and savour as many as you can while you're here. Although similar to its mainland counterpart in terms of fresh, simply prepared ingredients, and of course, handmade pasta, the isle does have its own distinctive dishes. You'd think, being an island, that seafood would take poll position on the most famous dish list, but it's actually 'porceddu', melt-in-the-mouth suckling pig roasted with myrtle leaves. Other meat medleys include 'agnello da latte', roast lamb basted with olive oil and lemon and 'maiale marinato', pork marinated in red wine, garlic and herbs. If that all sounds a bit on the heavy side, indulge in some fresh-from-the-net fish. Popular dishes include 'burrida' fish cooked in garlic, parsley and hazelnuts and 'buccinis' molluscs and clams served simply with wedges of lemon. And if you're staying in Alghero, don't miss their Catalan lobster served with special vinaigrette. And last, but by no means least, you'll find plenty of all-Italian pasta with a Sardinian twist on the menus. Tuck into heavenly 'fregula', granular pasta, similar to couscous, served with fresh clams. Try 'malloreddus' little gnocchi dumplings served with melted pecorino cheese, sausage and flavoured with saffron. And you can't leave without ordering 'culungiones' large ravioli stuffed with potato puree, cheese, onion and mint and then drizzled with fresh tomato sauce.
- Dal Corsara, Cagliari Arguably one of Sardinia's best eateries, dine on exquisite island dishes at this refined restaurant near the Via Roma.
- Al Tuguri, Alghero Housed in a 15th century building, seasonal delights are the name of the game here, with anything from sea urchins to onion soup on the menu.
- Gianni Pedrinelli, Porto Cervo Unbeatable al fresco dining and wonderful fresh seafood dishes have won the affections of foodies from around the globe.
- Il Porticciolo, Palau A family run trattoria with simple yet out-of-this-world-cooking and a menu that's refreshed daily.
- Gallura, Olbia Whether you go for fish or meat, risotto or pasta here, it's whipped up with a whole lot of creativity.
Nightlife
The one thing visitors don't head to Sardinia for is the nightlife. It's not what the island's about. Come sundown, evenings here revolve more around time-honoured pleasures. So if you're looking to skip the whole neon nightclub noise, you've found your perfect match. After dark, the pace tends to crank down rather than up, with evenings revolving around fine dining and good company. Not surprising given the Sardinians love of food and wine. If you're staying in one of the main towns, you'll find a more cosmopolitan scene. Head for their harbour or main square and stretch out the night in one of the atmospheric bars. Porto Cervo on the Costa Smeralda is one of the few exceptions where you'll find a couple of nightclubs. They're packed with more the Martini-and–champers-swigging set though than the bootie-shaking kind. Another buzzier option is Cagliari with a collection of bars where you can mingle with a laid-back crowd of night owls.
Shopping
Sardinia is somewhere you can spend an indecent amount of time blowing your budget. If you're heading south, capital city Cagliari will more than occupy your credit card. We're not talking a shopping frenzy on a Milan scale, but you can easily spend a day or two popping in and out of the super-smart shops along the elegant boulevard, Via Roma. Sitting parallel to the quay, this 19th century row of arched arcades has all the stylish Italian names you could wish for. Join the throngs of crowds and build up a collection of bags as you shop, stopping off at the paveside cafes along the way. If your tastes are a little more eclectic, wander off down the narrow streets behind and you'll find antique curios and tiny handicraft stores. Up in the north of the island, it's the Costa Smeralda's look-but-don't-touch boutiques that have the shoppers' full attention. From posh togs to designer bags– it's a temple of jet set retail worship. Of course, if you don't have the euros of a millionaire, you can simply sit with a frothy coffee and watch the chic shop. If none of that sounds up your street though, you'll find traditional Sardinian souvenirs pretty much all over the island. Almost every town has a weekly or daily food market, which are well worth a visit with cheese and pastry goodies always on offer and Castelsardo famous for its basket weaving. Other good buys to take home include pottery, woodwork and filigree jewellery. The small town of Bosa, is renowned for its array of goldsmiths' workshops, while Alghero's old town is the place to hunt out bespoke pieces of polished red coral jewellery for which the island is famous.
