GREECE: Santorini
Hugging an ancient volcanic caldera that now acts as a vast sheltered harbour, Santorini is small but perfectly formed. There's sensational scenery, oodles of history and enough nightlife to keep even the fiercest party animal at bay. And if you don't mind your sand in a darker shade of grey - a legacy of the island's volcanic past - there's plenty of good beach life too. Not to mention all the usual watersports to stop you becoming a total sunbed-potato. The centre of Santorini's universe is Thira, a bright, white town which clings to the caldera rim, overlooking the azure bay and the old epicentre of the volcano. At first glance it's a typical island capital, with quaint, white-washed houses tumbling down the cliff-side in terraces. But on closer inspection its cosmopolitan side jumps out at you, with shops, bars, hotels and restaurants packed into the web of streets and alleyways. Mind you, there are also some good museums, one of which houses an amazing 16-foot frieze of a prehistoric Aegean fleet of ships. Outside Thira, Santorini is less developed and something of a rural idyll. Cultivated fields and vineyards are interspersed with cute little villages, and the interior, dotted with isolated churches and hilltop fortresses is definitely worth exploring. Just make sure you're back at the coast for the sunset. A nod to the solar god Helios is an essential daily ritual for all Santorini sun-worshippers!
The 'caldera' or crater that occupies the centre of the island is one of the world's most dramatic and spectacular geological sights. Some theories state that Santorini was once part of the fabled lost continent of Atlantis - a fact which has provided inspiration to great many artists and writers. The black shining pebbles, the bizarre-looking land formations and the black, white and red sands all form to create unforgettable scenery. Santorini is home to one of the world's most famous sunsets. As evening approaches couples head to the beautiful town of Oia to secure their own romantic candle-lit table and watch the brilliant sun sink beneath the shimmering Aegean Sea.
Beaches
Don't go to Santorini expecting golden or powder-white beaches, as you might find on other Greek islands or elsewhere in the Med. We're talking seriously volcanic here, so the sands are dark grey - a la Lanzarote. They also tend to get pretty hot in the afternoon sun, so a pair of flip-flops is essential beachwear. Colour and temperature aside, Santorini's beaches offer safe bathing and plenty of watersports, so you can cool off with a quick dip or float around on a pedalo to your heart's content. The island's most popular beaches are on the east coast. Monolithos catches the southerly winds so is particularly good for windsurfing. Kamari is quite touristy, but has a relaxed atmosphere and a good diving centre. And just around the cape is Perissa, popular with backpackers, drawn by the availability of cheap beachside accommodation. Alternatively, in the far north of the island there's Oia, a favourite haunt of sunset-gazers. If you don't mind descending a couple of hundred or so steps, Armeni or Ammoudi beaches are worth the effort, and a good place to pick up pumice stone souvenirs, courtesy of the volcano.
Eating out
As everywhere in Greece, on Santorini eating is not a pastime. It's a way of life. A meal is as much a chance to relax and socialise as it is to savour the food, and you'll often see large families gathering at a taverna for an extended dinner, accompanied by large amounts of wine and equally large amounts of talking. That doesn't mean you can't get fast food if you want it. Thira has eateries for all tastes, from restaurants serving excellent fresh fish and seafood to pizzerias and Chinese. But the emphasis is on traditional Greek. And if you've been anywhere else on the mainland or islands, you won't be surprised by many of the dishes you'll find on the menu, which include the 'meze' of appetisers – taramosalata, dolmades, tzatziki etc - that often starts the meal with a real flourish. That being said, you'll no doubt be pleased to hear that ubiquitous 'favourites' like moussaka, kalamari and baklava are joined by mouth-watering traditional Santorini specialities, using locally produced ingredients. The most popular is tomatokeftedes, starring the island's succulent cherry tomatoes, spiced up with paprika, combined with flour, olive oil, parsley and mint, then fried into a delicious rissole. Then there's fava paste, a puree made from fava lentils native to the island. If you're into cheese, you've got to try some 'chloro', if you can find it that is. It's not easy to come by, but worth the search. And if you're sweet-toothed, you'll find 'koufeto' hard to resist. It's a delicious dessert made of honey-soaked almonds. As for a drink to accompany your meal, Santorini is famous for its wines. The volcanic explosion in the 17th century created the perfect conditions for viniculture and the result is an array of very drinkable products, from bone dry whites to the velvety Vinsanto dessert wines.
- Sphinx, Thira Housed in a converted mansion, this well established restaurant serves up fine Mediterranean cuisine, along with spectacular views over the caldera.
- Fanari, Thira Centrally located and with views over the caldera, this friendly restaurant offers traditional Greek food at reasonable prices.
- Taverna Pyrgos, Pyrgos Standing on the highest point of the island with panoramic views, this Greek/international restaurant is a memorable place to eat.
- Ambrosia, Oia Not cheap, but the perfect place for that special romantic candlelit dinner as you watch the sunset.
- Skaramagas, Kamari A typical beachside taverna, offering good value Greek fare, including a mouth-watering 'mezedes'.
Nightlife
For the best nightlife on the island it's got to be Thira. After the sun sinks behind the horizon, the town lights up with twinkling neon and the after-dark crowd take to the streets. There are lots of bars and clubs overlooking the caldera, with others tucked away in the network of cobbled streets that steps down the cliff-side. However, there are strict laws about noise pollution, so you'll find the ones that stay open later are usually closed off from the wonderful views. Guests DJs often spin their stuff during the summer months and you may get charged an entrance fee, although this will usually include your first drink. Away from Thira, the most lively place is Kamari, which has stacks of bars and clubs catering mainly for the tourist trade. Elsewhere you'll be able to enjoy a few drinks in a lively hostelry, but are unlikely to be dancing until dawn. Of course, not everyone is looking for a sizzling nightlife scene. And Santorini caters equally well for those who just want to enjoy a relaxing meal and an after dinner drink. There are several informal bars along the caldera with courtyards where, as long as you take a jacket or jumper to fend off the fresh breeze, you'll have a relaxing evening with a view over the sparkling lights of the town and the bay beyond.
- Franco's, Thira A drink here will cost you a pretty penny, but it's worth it for the amazing view over the caldera.
- Kira Thira, Thira If you're into jazz and blues, this laid back venue is for you. It's also famous for its sangria.
- Tithora Club, Thira Heavy music, heavy drinking – that's the formula at this well established rocker's hangout.
- Koo Club, Thira The biggest and, arguably, the best of Santorini's clubs. There are three bars and a roster of resident DJs.
- Yellow Donkey Disco, Kamari A typical resort disco popular with younger holidaymakers.
Shopping
Along with Mykonos, Santorini is probably the best of the Cyclades for shopping. In Thira there's just about something for everybody, from designer boutiques to traditional souvenir shops. Handmade jewellery is a good buy, including gold worked into Byzantine style designs, and there is plenty of good, hand embroidered linen to be had. As for artefacts, the highly skilled potters of Santorini take their inspiration from the island's vivid colours and the halcyon hues of the setting sun, creating eye-catching earthenware that will remind you of bright, sunny days or balmy evenings when you're back in Blighty with the rain coming down outside. When it comes to art, Santorini has long been a magnet for painters and there are lots of galleries where you can pick up a reasonably priced piece that will make a handsome gift or a treasured memento of your stay. Oia is the best place to look for art, its picture postcard views proving irresistible to just about anyone with a brush, a canvas and the requisite talent. Alternatively, take home a taste of the island in the form of a bottle of local wine. A visit to one of the wineries scattered around the island will offer a try-before-you-buy facility. And last but not least on the shopping list, there's one of Santorini's natural products - pumice. The quarries may have closed to preserve what remains of the caldera. But pumice stones are still widely available and do wonders for tired feet after a hard day's sightseeing!
