CYPRUS: Paphos

Mark Anthony was in to grand gestures, so much so that he gave Cyprus to Cleopatra as a token of his love. And he couldn't have picked a more fitting gift. This sun-drenched island is like a glittering treasure trove spilling over with gems. You want sun-soaked beaches? No problem, Cyprus is framed by dreamy sands. You want scenery? Easy - the island has everything from the majestic peaks of the Troodos mountains to pine-cloaked slopes cut with cascading, ice-cold streams. History? Simple. We're talking forts, castles, tombs, churches, the lot. Stand in the middle of the ancient theatre at Kourion and you can almost hear the roars of the crowds as a gladiator takes his last breath. Or take a trip into the mountain-top monastery, Kykkos, and stand before the famous icon, Elousa, said to have been painted by St Luke the Evangelist. Don't look directly at it though - so holy is the icon, legend has it anyone who attempts to gaze upon it will be instantly blinded.
The west coast of Cyprus is the place to head if you're looking for traditional charm, laid-back living and an architectural heritage that'll leave you spellbound. Paphos, where you'll fly into, is arguably the most popular resort on this stretch of Cyprus, one of those rare places that has managed to strike the right balance between old and new. On the one hand you've got old forts, underground churches and crumbling theatres, on the other there's sleek shops, colourful cafes and tempting restaurants. Further south is lively Limassol, famous for being the place where Richard the Lion Heart was shipwrecked. Take a trip to the castle where he married his sweetheart or wander round the ruins of Amathous.
During its long history the Romans, Byzantines, Greeks and British have left their mark - head to Paphos to see the spectacular Tombs of the Kings and the ancient mosaics at the House of Dionysos. It's well worth taking the time to explore inland - a day spent in the Troodos mountains with ancient monasteries on pine-scented slopes, ice-cold streams cascading through the pine and oak trees and sleepy stone-built villages is a day to remember. The main resorts buzz with life well into the small hours and you can choose from romantic quayside tavernas or beachside restaurants serving fresh seafood dishes.
Beaches
With over 800 kilometres of stunning coastline, Cyprus offers a myriad of sandy beaches, delightful rocky inlets and secluded coves. The west coast is home to a clutch of inviting sands, especially around Coral Bay and the Akamas Peninsula. Paphos offers plenty in the way of beach activities. Choose from jet-skiing and diving to water-skiing and paragliding. Meanwhile, the east coast plays host to arguably the island's best beaches and most enticing coves. Larnaca boasts a long sandy crescent while Ayia Napa's swathe of beach extends for hundreds of metres and is particularly popular. With its golden sliver of sand and views out across Fig Tree Bay, Protaras is another firm favourite. Nissi Beach is a much sought after beach haunt - if it gets a bit too crowded, retreat by wading out to the famous islet that rises up in the middle of the bay and find yourself a more isolated spot. Cape Greco, meanwhile, is excellent for scuba diving.
Eating out
Cyprus is a food lover's paradise, where tempting Greek dishes are fused with exotic Middle Eastern recipes. Pop into a taverna and try delicious moussaka, baked with aubergines, potatoes and minced lamb, or hearty kleftiko, slow-roasted lamb with rosemary and Mediterranean vegetables. A traditional Cypriot meze – a tapas-like meal consisting of up to 30 different dishes – is a great way to gain an insight into Cypriot cuisine and includes halloumi cheese, juicy olives and stuffed tomatoes. Traditional tavernas aside, though, most of the big holiday resorts offer an incredible selection of restaurants - everything from Indian and Thai, to Mexican and Italian. If you want to sample a Cypriot tipple, try brandy sour, which combines brandy with lemons and angostura bitters. It is claimed that wines have been produced in Cyprus since 2000 BC and Cypriot wines, especially sweet ones like commandaria, are delicious yet inexpensive.
Nightlife
Whether you want to party the night away or sip a cocktail at sunset, Cyprus caters for all tastes. Whilst Ayia Napa continues to attract scores of serious music fans, Potamos Yermasoyias in Limassol also offers a wide selection of clubs and discos and is now a serious competitor in the island nightlife sweepstakes. Meanwhile, friendly bars, pavement cafes and romantic harbourside tavernas form the backbone of more leisurely evening pursuits.
Shopping
Cyprus' main shopping centres are located in and around the modern and 19th-century quarters of the island's capital, Nicosia, and the large town of Limassol. Paphos, meanwhile, is renowned for its American Indian-looking tri-colour circular mats called tsestos, which are often seen adorning the walls of local tavernas. The village of Lefkara, set in the foothills of the Troodos Mountains, is famous for its lacework and you can still see the local women at work, crocheting in the narrow cobbled streets. Silverware and jewellery are particularly good buys on the east of the island, as are designer sunglasses. They cost a lot less than at home, owing to direct importation. If you're looking for local handicrafts, make a beeline for Larnaca's tradesmen's bazaar where you'll find a selection of traditional coppersmiths, carpenters and antique dealers.