GREECE: Kos
It may be small, but Kos manages to squeeze in two very distinct identities. The first to catch your eye is its 'hostess-with-the-mostest' side. Cue resorts perched right on the shore, designed purely to put you where the sun is. Bars, clubs and cafes practically falling over themselves to grab your attention. And enough duvet-soft sands that'll have you barefoot and bronzing in no time. You'll find this version of Kos strutting its stuff in places like Kos Town, Kardamena and Lambi. But don't let that heady combination of sun, sand and sparkling seas fool you. Head inland and you'll find the island's shy and retiring side. Deserted hamlets ripe for exploring. Intimate beaches tucked into rugged coves. And dotted across the wooded hills, little pockets of peace in the form of whitewashed villages. But to discover this other, quieter side, you don't have to swap your flip-flops for hiking boots. Mini-resorts like Marmari and Mastihari delve into the 'real' Kos fusing beach lounging with rustic living. But the best thing about this island is that, whichever Kos you choose, you're never too far from the other.
Beaches
If you add up all of the space Kos dedicates to soft golden sands, sugar-white shores and dark shingle sun-spots, it's just under half of the entire coast. If that's not the definition of blessed, what is? So, what do you do with acres of fine sand and crystal clear sea? Cater for every kind of beach lover, that's what. If you like your patch of sand bursting with bronzed bodies, brimming with bars and more watersports than your wet suit knows what to do with, Kardamena's the place for you. Between Kefalos and Kardamena, the coast barely pauses for breath – it's golden beaches all the way. They might have their own whimsical names, but you can't tell where one ends and another begins... Magic Beach is the broadest and wildest of the bunch – complete with its own nudist section. Next is Sunny Beach with its very own taverna and a smattering of watersports. Langahdhes is the arguably the prettiest, with dunes and junipers as the supporting cast. And then there's the ever popular - and ever packed - Paradise Beach with its winning combo of sun-beds, water sports and waves kept warm by volcanic bubbles. Across the island, on the northeastern end, choose from Kos Town's sand and shingle offerings or the gently shelving shore of its neighbour, Lambi. However, for the connoisseur of peace and quiet, it's off to the northern edge of the island. Lined with white sand, Tingaki's sweeping bay has all the extras but keeps it low key. Not far away, you'll find the hidden gem that is Marmari Beach - a favourite with windsurfers. Last but not least, is Mastihari Beach. With its flat white sands and smattering of eucalyptus trees, it's positively Caribbean.
Eating out
Bacon and eggs? Or 'dolmades' and 'bakaliaros'? You can be as British as roast beef and tea or as Greek as olives and ouzo - Kos has catered for the tastes of its tourists as well as keeping its traditional recipes well and truly at the top of the menu. The capital's home to endless eateries to suit all palettes and budgets. For some typical Greek coffee – brewed in a 'briki' – you can't beat the old town, with its thriving cafe culture and its veritable feast of light bite emporiums. As the evening sets in, it's off to the harbour-side restaurants for melt-in-your-mouth grilled meats, freshly caught fish and a glass of anything red from the acclaimed local wine label, Hatziemmanouil. After an aperitif? Fruity and fiery, Metaxa is a regional brandy not to be missed. Away from Kos Town's eclectic mix, things separate out a bit more. Kardamena is home to the Black Swan pub, Maccy D's and more chippies than Brighton seafront, but it's got its tavernas tucked away too. For an intimate dinner with a seafront setting, look no further than Tingaki, Mastihari or Marmari. Each has a handful of restaurants, dishing up gorgeous Greek grub. Sink you teeth into some 'spedzofai' – a spicy sausage and pepper stew. Or how about some 'youvetsi', a tender beef with pasta? Also, 'saganale', or deep fried goat's cheese, is a must. For the ultimate dining experience, you have to go to Zia. Almost all the restaurants here come with some kind of recommendation, but the biggest pull doesn't come on a plate. The sunsets are simply spectacular and add a touch of magic to an already exquisite dinner.
- Pok tin Kyriaki, Kos Town The island's only genuine ouzeri, which means every drink you order will comes with sumptuous meze dishes.
- Ambeli, Tingaki A simply beautiful spot for dinner. Off the beaten track, a little way out of town, you'll find this vine-covered taverna dishing up good food with its friendly service.
- Oromedon Restaurant, Zia THE place to enjoy the famous Zia sunsets. Right in the centre, the Oromedon has the best views out across the island. Sit back and drink in the glory before tucking into traditional Greek goodies.
- Kali Kardia, Mastihari Put simply, the food is excellent. Their fish is fresh and highly recommended. But leave some room, because the desserts are out of this world.
- Arap Taverna, Plantani If you like Turkish food, you've got to visit the little village of Plantani, just outside of Kos Town. Not only are there world class kebabs, it's got a great atmosphere to boot.
Nightlife
Night owls and bar bunnies just can't get enough of nocturnal Kos. The queen of the night is Kardamena, which has got more karaoke, clubs and discos than you could do in a month. Once the sun goes down, the sea front buzzes with the latest sounds - R'n'B, house, garage, and the odd cheesy anthem thrown in for good measure. As you can imagine, this place is a honey trap for the young and skimpily clad, but as long as you're up for a good time, this is the place to be. Moving from Kos' clubbing capital to its proper capital, you're still in for a top night out. Kos Town has got all the verve of Kardamena with a slightly classier edge and more mature crowd. Here, it's about a cocktail or two at a harbour side bar, before a spot of dinner. Then it's on to Diakon and Nafklirou streets to mix it up in cosmopolitan clubs and bars that wouldn't be out of place in London. Of course, you can still follow the strains of off-key singing to seek out the nearest karaoke den. Or if you need a night off from the noise, head to Orfeos, Kos Town's open air cinema. Of course, wild nights out aren't obligatory – and in fact you can avoid them quite easily here. Just find yourself a quiet bar somewhere like Kefalos, Psalidi or Tingaki and settle in for a few drinks in the balmy evening air.
- Haman Bar, Kos Town Once a Turkish bath, it's now a top end bar complete with Oriental decor and chill out rooms. DJs, live music and oodles of style.
- Heaven, Lambi Not so much a club as an open-air disco experience. A swimming pool, cushions and curtains, and a crowd that's quite simply up for it. Techno, garage, funky house, the lot. Dress up to get down.
- Nostos, Kos Town A small but funky open-air bar attached to Theodorou Beach Hotel. Wicker seats in a wooden gazebo with palm trees all around - a perfect spot to end the day or start the night.
- Downtown, Kardamena Definitely not one for the clubbing connoisseur, Downtown is cheesier than cheese on toast with a side order of cheese. Meaning it's a wicked place to get things going or to disguise that fact you just can't dance.
- Status and Starlight, Kardamena The two biggest clubs in Kardamena are only a few metres apart. Between them, they cover house, garage and R'n'B. Think boob tubes, beer and beats 'til the sun comes up.
Shopping
OK, so when it comes to retail therapy Kos is no Manhattan. But having said that, if you're after a souvenir or an outfit to show off your tan, you won't be left wanting. Every resort has its own colourful array of beachside stalls that sell everything from sarongs to sandals. And as you'd expect, the bigger the resort, the bigger the selection of shops – Kardamena and Kos Town are particularly fruitful. But if you're after something other than luminous bikinis and cheeky postcards, you need to move slightly inland. As the island's capital, Kos Town offers some of the most cosmopolitan shopping around. Head to the old part of town and wander through the pedestrianised shopping area. It starts at the Italian Market Hall, runs down to the Platia Eleftheias and across to Platia Dhiagoras – and every inch of it is lined with chic boutiques, classy cafes and simple snack bars. Once you reach the Platia Eleftheias, pop across to the Hassan Pasha Mosque. Strangely enough, its ground floor is brimming with shops. Top buys include anything leather, anything fashionable and anything fresh and fruity from the main square markets. You may also notice a bizarre abundance of sponges – don't be alarmed, it's not an invasion. Kos and its neighbouring island Kalymonos have been famed for their sponge production since way back when, which means you're in the right place to buy them. They're about a quarter of what you'd pay back home, and perfect for a long hot soak when you're back in old Blighty.
