GREECE: Kefalonia
Castaway Kefalonia - the island of Captain Corelli fame - is the unexplored giant of the Ionian Sea. Rarely crowded and rich in natural beauty, it begs to be discovered.
'Captain Corelli's Mandolin' may have thrown Kefalonia into the headlines, but it's been a blockbuster of its own for years. If you're looking for a Greek island that's largely untouched, this is place to come. From towering mountains to bleach blue seas, Kefalonia's got beauty by the bucket load. But knock-out scenery is just one of the things that make this land so great. It's got something up its sleeve for every type of traveller. Sun worshippers will flock to the magical Myrtos beach. Sightseers will gawp in amazement at the frankly beautiful underground Lake of Mellisani. And for those that can't resist a sunset, the steep hills of Lassi. But if you need further proof of Kefalonia's beauty, follow the smell of grilled seafood to the quaint fishing villages of Fiskardo and Skala. With a blend of beautiful scenery and easy pace of life, you're sure to fall head over heels for this wonderful island.
Much of Kefalonia was devastated in 1953 by a huge earthquake. However in the rebuilding it has managed to retain a true sense of Greek life that has been lost on many other islands. It is also one of the sunniest Greek islands making the coast and its plethora of tiny fishing villages particularly enjoyable. Here you can witness the day-to-day activities of authentic Greece. As you head inland Kefalonia sweeps up into the dramatic mountain scenery that draws so many people here. Monasteries dot the pine-clad, craggy hills that lead to the impressive Mount Aenos which dominates the south of the island. In the north spectacular cliffs are the defining characteristic of a stunning coastline.
Beaches
Kefalonian beaches are possibly the best in all of Greece. You're probably already familiar with the mighty Myrtos beach. Whether it's from guide books or the film Captain Corelli's Mandolin, this beach is recognised as one of finest in the world. And rightly so. It's truly worth the stomach-churning trip down the long and winding road to the shore. At the bottom you'll be rewarded with a sandy beach trapped between towering cliffs and sparkling blue seas. Often referred to as a Myrtos relative, Petani seems to have pinched a few ideas from the flagship beach. Not only has it nabbed the sparkling sea and sand, it's cheekily stuffed a curved coastline and mountains up its jumper. But don't think that all Kefalonia's beaches are trying to muscle in on Myrtos. Some stand firmly independent with their own style. Skala's coast is covered in pine trees that smell just as good as they look. Beyond these are sand and shingle as far as the eye can see, with miles of waves piggybacking a ride. If you're more interested in watersports than sunbathing, swap your lotion for a wetsuit and zip over to Lourdas. There's waterskiing, paragliding and a little bit of sailing thrown in for good measure.
Eating out
Kefalonian meal times are more of a social thing than a way to satisfy hunger. But that doesn't mean the food comes in second best. This place is chock-a-block with all types of food – traditional, contemporary, international. You're pretty much guaranteed to find something to please even the fussiest of eaters. With an island full of working fisherman, you can guess that seafood's a pretty big deal here. Because of declining fish stocks some can be a tad pricey, but it's well worth splashing out on. Octopus is a speciality, with swordfish and squid in high demand. Of course you'll find meat dishes on the menu, with lamb a firm favourite. A popular dish is kleftiko, where the lamb is marinated in garlic and lemon juice, then slow-baked on the bone. Moussaka's another favourite, a lamb and aubergine casserole. Beef and pork also crop up regularly, with both ingredients going into the Kefalonian meat pie. Vegetarian options are not quite as easy to come by, but there are a few tasty options. Fasolakia freska's a dish made with fresh green beans, stewed with potatoes, zucchini and tomato sauce. And let's not forget dolmades - vine leaves stuffed with rice, lemon juice and herbs. You won't find any burger joints here, but you will find a few places offering chicken or pork kebabs. Coming from England you may be surprised to know that Greek kebabs are healthy and not at all greasy. Of course no meal would be complete without a tipple to wash it down. The famous Robola wine goes well with fish and chicken dishes, or you can walk on the wild side with a glass of Ouzo or three.
II Destino, Skala – If you've indulged in a little too much Moussaka, leave Greece behind and head for the Italy. There's no need to hop on a plane either, you can get a taste of the island with this little beauty. Their menu's packed with traditional and contemporary dishes that are every bit as delicious as they look.
Tassia, Fiskardo – Possibly the most famous restaurant on the island, it's renowned for excellent food. The owner and head chef, Tassia Dendrinou, has become a food writer and penned plenty of cookbooks. Make sure you try his speciality dish of lobster spaghetti.
Symposium, Skala – Adding a touch of pizzazz to Skala is the Symposium restaurant. From the gorgeous decor to the live piano player, this place has a great vibe. You can almost picture Sammy Davis Jnr tinkling the ivories as Mr Sinatra sips champagne in the corner. But let's not forget the food, which is simply delicious.
Kiani Akti, Argostoli – If you can't say no to seafood, point yourself in the direction of Kiani Akti. Their menu changes in accordance with the catch of the day. Alongside the usual seafood are scallops, cuttlefish and octopus.
Oskars Restaurant, Skala – Introducing the masters of the barbecue. All the fish and meat is cooked in a traditional style over olive wood embers. And if you're starting to think that Greek dancing is somewhat of a myth, have no fear. As you tuck into your meal you can enjoy some of the finest cabaret around.
Nightlife
Although some Greek resorts like their evenings loud and proud, here in Kefalonia they prefer the volume turned right down. Rather than dancing 'til dawn, most resorts are based around a meal and a few drinks. But that's no bad thing. This place has a strange way of instantly easing you into the gentle pace of local life. The long beach at Skala's the ideal spot for a few drinks as you watch the sun go down, while Fiskardo's just as scenic. With hundreds of lights illuminating the harbour, it's sets the perfect mood for a meal by the water's edge. Of course this pace of life isn't for everyone. If you're an out-and-out party animal, there are a few places to go. Your best bet is to point your dancing shoes in the direction of Argostoli. Here you'll find plenty of places that pump out the tunes until the early morning. Whether you want house music and cocktails, or alcopops and cheesy hits, you should find something to suit.
Captains Bar, Skala – Originally opened 1987, it's still one of the best bars in all of Skala. Their cocktail menu's so long it may as well be written on wallpaper – choose from the meek and mild, or the fiery and ferocious. If you're a celebrity spotter, keep your eyes peeled for Shaun of the Dead's Simon Pegg, who's known to show his face every now and then.
The Cinema Club, Argostoli – Although this former cinema's been converted into a nightclub, it's still got that glitzy Hollywood magic. Palm trees are liberally scattered around, with original seating and a vintage projection system. With top-notch DJs and a booming sound system, it's an experience not to be missed.
Dacappo, Argostoli – Grab your drink and head up to the top storey of this swanky bar. Their rooftop terrace is the ideal place to relax and unwind as you check out the amazing views over Argostoli.
Kastro Club, Fiskardo – Officially the hottest club in Fiskardo. The owners have converted an old mine into an open-air club that simply has to been seen. In the middle of trees and plants you'll find a a massive stone dancefloor that's always packed with clubbers.
Rumours, Argostoli – If you need further proof that good things to come in small packages, head over to Rumours. This place may be compact, but it more than makes up for it with a wild atmosphere and busy dancefloor. Keep an eye out for special guests DJs from around the globe.
Shopping
You'll find no Gucci sunglasses here. What you will find, however, are traditional bits and bobs by the ton. So forget the materialism of back home – swap your Louboutins for flip flops and dive into the Kefalonian way of life. A good place to start is the Argostoli market. You'll find no end of Greek goodies that'll have you living like a local in no time. The stalls are packed with likes of Greek honey, olive oil, and of course, the famous Robola wine. If you can't resist the lure of fresh seafood, you're in luck. The local fishermen pull in their nets and flip their catch straight onto the market stalls. Among the usual prawns, crabs and squid you'll find the more exotic scallops, bream and clams. Aside from markets, many of Argostoli's top notch shops are on Lithostroto Street. Art lovers can pick up pictures by English artist Peter Hemming, who specialises in painting Kefalonia's landscape. There's a bakery that's famous for using a wood fire to create tasty bread and biscuits. And a fine jeweller that creates snazzy pieces with loads of different stones and metals. Although Argostoli's the main place for shopping, most places have their own set of shops. You'll find plenty of art, ceramics and pottery in Skala. Fiskardo's got a couple of designer clothes shops. And Lassi's got a few places where you can pick up those all-important souvenirs.
