GREECE: Halkidiki
Shaped like the three prongs of Poseidon's trident, Halkidiki is a land of sandy beaches, pine-clad hills and unspoilt harbour resorts all waiting to be discovered...
This three-pronged peninsula spearing the northern Aegean overflows with pleasures and treasures. We're talking sun-drenched sandy beaches straight from a storybook. Lush hills studded with timeless hamlets and serene monasteries. Haunting Roman ruins, Byzantine watchtowers and prehistoric caves. All rubbing shoulders with gorgeously unspoilt harbour villages and charming family-friendly resorts. What more could anyone possibly want? Yet each of Halkidiki's peninsulas has its own personality. The most visited is Kassandra, to the west. And it's easy to see why. Here, breathtaking sands are framed by Caribbean-esque waters and stunning green hillsides, which give way to peaceful old-time hamlets and bigger resorts offering exciting evening entertainment. The next peninsula, Sithonia, is wilder and more rugged, with secluded coves interspersed with sandy bays whose beauty will make your heart skip a beat. Up above, steep hills cloaked in fragrant pine forests evoke a feeling of Austria or Scotland, beckoning walkers and outdoor-lovers up into their arms. And finally, there's mystery-cloaked, silent Mount Athos. The easternmost of Halkidiki's peninsulas, this holy region is a secretive land of monasteries and is closed to most ordinary visitors. The only way to experience it is on a cruise along its shores. It's fairytale stuff. And all part of the spell that this bewitching region is sure to cast over you.
Beaches
Halkidiki is a humdinger when it comes to beaches. Wherever you lay your hat, you'll find a cavalcade of glorious sandy and pebbly bays that'll have you drooling with delight if you're into sun-snoozing, snorkelling or simply chilling out amid knock-'em-dead views. On the Kassandra peninsula, the sandy beaches come thick and fast with crystalline shallows perfect for kids and lush green backdrops always in tow. Kalithea beach is a case in point, with its shimmering sands caressed by calm turquoise seas that look like they've been shipped in from the Caribbean. It's the same story at Nea Flogita, Dionisiou, Afitos, Posidi, Fourka and Sani, where expansive, family-friendly beaches of soft sands and tiny smooth pebbles create a picture-perfect holiday setting. Watersports fiends won't be disappointed either. At Kalithea, Sani and Pefkohori especially, you'll find an excellent choice of ocean-going pursuits to get out on the waves and cool your sun-baked body. On the Sithonia and Mount Athos peninsulas, the picture varies slightly with a wider variety of sandy beaches and pebbly coves to keep even the fussiest beach babes happy. Quieter than Kassandra, Sithonia mixes stupendous and justifiably popular beaches like those at Agios Ioannis and Spathies with romantic rocky coves such as those at Elia. At the same time, you'll find loads of near-empty stretches offering almost complete privacy, as well as the glittering sandy beaches at Sarti and Sykia. And further east on the Athos peninsula, Ouranoupolis boasts lovely sand-and-gravel swathes with more secluded and dreamy rocky bays out towards Tripiti. Beaches on Halkidiki? Silly question.
Eating out
Tempting traditional tavernas. Sizzling souvlaki grills. Cosy kafenion, with rickety wooden tables perched out in the sunshine. And idyllic blue-painted beach restaurants where lunches can go on forever to the sound of the sea. Everything and anything goes in Halkidiki. When it comes to menus though, we're talking typically Greek. You know, the sort of dishes that taste fabulous when liberally smothered in hot sunshine. How about 'moussaka', everyone's favourite? Made with thick layers of aubergine, minced lamb and luscious bechamel sauce, it's a delight from start to finish. Then there's 'mezes'. Eaten as a snack, starter or main meal, it involves grazing on everything from lemon-suffused dolmades - stuffed vine leaves - spicy keftedes – meatballs - mounds of soft pink taramasalata and many more tasty and tangy titbits. Enjoyed with an ice-cold ouzo or crisp Mythos beer, nothing gets closer to a taste of pure Greece. And of course, as well as grilled meat dishes like lemon-flavoured chicken 'souvlaki', there's the fresh fish and seafood to contend with. Most waterfront and larger tavernas will tempt you with a choice of daily catches straight from the sea, like mouth-watering calamari, red mullet and swordfish or more exotic concoctions like slow-cooked octopus stew. On the drinks side, Halkidiki's wines are some of Greece's best, so take your pick from fruity local reds and zesty whites. And why not finish your feasting with a local liqueur or 'metaxa' brandy? Many eating establishments will offer a complimentary dinky glass of liqueur to round off your meal. And who could possibly refuse?
Pazar Hamami, Thessaloniki If you're looking for somewhere atmospheric, you'll love this converted Turkish bath with its pavement tables and excellent fish dishes.
Paniyotes, Afitos One of the favourites in Afitos, this welcoming family-run taverna is especially popular for its scrumptious whole spit-roasted chickens.
Klimataria, Afitos Join the locals who pour into this traditional eaterie off Afitos' main square to feast on fried pumpkin and 'soutsoukakia', spicy meatballs cooked in garlic-infused tomato sauce.
Viktorias, Fourka A hugely popular eaterie in Fourka, Viktorias serves up well-cooked Greek dishes in copious portions.
Donkey Island Beach Taverna, Ouranoupolis Head out to this island opposite Ouranoupolis and feast on the taverna's succulent steamed mussels and 'souvlaki' with the sand beneath your feet.
Nightlife
Hedonistic partying isn't what Halkidiki is really about. In reality, night-time here stays mostly in the mellow, moonlit-stroll-and-supper groove. This is especially true in the smaller villages and hotel-based resorts like Sani and Gerakina, where most evenings unfold at a waterside bar over glasses of icy ouzo and wine before moving on to a candlelit taverna to dine on home-cooked Greek fare. Also, many of the bigger hotels stage their own after-dark entertainments in the shape of folklore recitals and bouzouki shows to keep you clapping, singing and dancing till late. They're great fun for all the family. Yet while many of the less developed resorts revel in their low-key atmosphere, some of Halkidi's larger haunts offer a livelier dose of nightlife if you want it. In Fourka and Afioti, you'll find great music spots and vibrant discos if you're in the mood for dancing the night away. Hanioti also has out-of-town clubs playing electronic dancebeats during high-season weekends – perfect for a fix of high-voltage partying, whilst Kalithea has vibrant beach bars, clubs and discos aplenty. And as you'd expect, Thessaloniki does a mean line in both modern nightclubs and exuberant live music bars where the sound of traditional bouzoukis ring out into the night air.
- Principal Club, Thessaloniki On the road towards Moudania near Thessaloniki airport, this cultish small club is a brilliant live music venue – even Morrissey's played here.
- Kleio Boat Bar, Thessaloniki Down by the quayside near the White Tower, this popular converted boat-bar plays thumping rock music and sometimes heads out to sea at the same time.
- Sunshine Cocktail Bar, Hanioti Famed for its banana martinis and lethal fishbowl cocktails, this hangout off Hanioti's main square offers plump leather sofas and great dance tunes.
- Waikiki Bar, Hanioti Another of Hanioti's hip bars, the Waikiki is a magnet for twenty-somethings looking to chill out over cocktails and liqueur-laced frappes.
- Ahoy, Kalithea Probably Kalithea's best-known club, the packed dancefloors of this high-octane club stay grooving till 4am or later.
Shopping
There's something for everyone in Halkidiki's shopping department, from the glossy stores of Thessaloniki to the tiny treasure troves that are part of the furniture in tourist towns and villages. In virtually every resort, you'll find gift shops specialising in local crafts and curios like olive wood carvings, colourful hand-woven textiles and traditional glazed ceramics, many of which sport quintessential Greek village scenes. Gold and silver jewellery, much centring on religious or classical imagery, is reasonably priced and plentiful too. But don't just stick to the stock mementoes. For something a bit different, make a beeline for jars of sweet, sticky Halkidiki honey, once praised by Aristotle for its 'curative powers'. The verdant local landscapes are fertile ground for cheese production, so bag some of the mouth-watering regional goat's and cow's cheese from little grocery stores. And wherever your explorations take you, you're sure to stumble across village markets heaving with fresh produce, handicrafts and the local intricate embroidery. For shopping on a bigger scale, Nea Moudania and Thessaloniki come up trumps. Halkidiki's main commercial centre, Nea Moudania holds a Wednesday market that's an extravaganza of outdoor stalls trading locally grown olives, fruit and other fresh produce. But when it comes to charming the euros out of your pocket, Thessaloniki is a past master. Here you'll find fresh food markets mingling with sophisticated antique shops, glitzy malls and the designer boutiques and department stores of buzzing avenues like Aghias Sophias and Tsimiski street. If you rave about all things retail, this is definitely your kind of place.
